Get down there for a look, and press the clutch pedal with your hands. (WTF? Nice work, you bums! :swearin: ) Freeplay is how "loose" the pedal is. My pedal was about 145mm off the floor, from the top of the pedal. Make sure to measure this from the same spot and in a consistent manner. Make some measurements, in case you poop it up and need to return to factory settings. Three pedals, not two! BTW, this would also be a good time to check your brake fluid (clutch uses the brake resovoir). Step 1) First, check to see if you have a manual tranny in your car. Or, maybe 1+ hour to test drive if traffic is light and the local curvy road is clear. Time required: 15-30 minutes to do adjustment, 45 minutes to test drive the car afterwards. Everything is in metric, you might want to do some conversions before getting started. A trouble lamp or flashlight would probably be good. Materials: 12mm wrench, 1/2" wrench, ruler, wheel chocks, floor felt thingies (from now on, known as "FFT" in this writeup). Whatever you use, make sure it won't come loose! I used floor felt pad thingies, until I got sick of that and did this pedal adjustment instead. You can use just about anything for a clutch stop, as long as it won't move and/or come loose. That is, if you didn't want to have to pay for it (you cheap bastard).Ī3: Try a clutch stop - this will lessen the amount of pedal travel you have to deal with. You're more likely to have success if you are less than 20,000 kms and newer than 1 year, during the adjustment period of the warranty. Complain about funny shifting, or whatever else you think will get them to do it for you. What else can I do?Ī2: Try to convince your Mazda dealer to adjust the clutch pedal for you. Q: This adjustment sucks, and your writeup sucks. Otherwise, your have a lot of freedom to play.Ī: Yes, but only if you PayPal me $50. That you can fully disengage the clutch in all conditions, and that you are not putting any pressure on the master cylinder when the pedal is at the top. Suck it up!Ī: You are worried about 2 things, when making a clutch pedal adjustment. If you wreck your car, it's not my fault. If you have or think you'll have issues with your clutch and/or tranny, you probably shouldn't do this until all of those are resolved. My car is a v6, but it should be similar for an i4.Ī: Possibly. I also found that clutch pedal effort seems to be slightly lighter than before. Clutch engages much closer to the floor, and pedal height is lowered. Q: What happens when I make this adjustment?Ī: I personally found that the uneasy-unnerving clutch engagement was improved, but YMMV. Experts, feel free to send me any corrections. This writeup is long because I am trying to be clear, even to somebody who has never worked on a car before. I would like the clutch pedal to be roughly the same height as the brake pedal.Īpologies on the length - this is actually a pretty simple adjustment. I thought that the clutch pedal was too high, period. Too many "accidental" 2500 rpm launches, when I wasn't intending to. I thought that the pedal was too high off the floor when the clutch engaged. What I wanted to fix with this adjustment was: I've finally gotten around to adjusting my clutch pedal.
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